The Paris Chronicles: Days One and Two

The view from my balcony
at the Hôtel D'Orsay

 Normally I prepare for travel abroad. In the whirlwind of new faculty orientation and settling into my apartment and my new office, I just didn't this time around. I even managed to schedule an "onboarding" (I hate that word) call for my website redesign for Saturday morning, when I should have been getting properly ready. My packing consists of shoving back into my suitcase whatever I had taken out of it over the previous three days. (Conveniently, settling into my apartment did not include unpacking.) As soon as the call is over, I head for the airport.

At some point I get a message from the place I'm supposed to be staying. If my French serves me correctly, they are telling me that for health reasons, they are no longer supplying bath towels. Google Translate informs me that my French is indeed serving me correctly. I'm not quite sure how you can advertise a place as "tout équipé" and then take away the bath towels, but whatever. Would have been nice if you had told me that before I left.

First flight is to JFK. Another message. "Oh, and we do require a cash deposit of 300 euros when you arrive." OK, this is beginning to sound a bit scammy. I'm not sure what's going on, but I'm not putting down cash that I don't have for the privilege of air-drying myself for a week. Canceled.

This is happening while I'm sitting on the JFK-Paris flight (before taxiing). Thanks to Facebook, I have found out that my two friends who will be at the conference are staying at the Hôtel D'Orsay, so I make a reservation there.

The only transatlantic flight I've been on for many years is the Tampa-London/Gatwick flight. That flight is about eight hours, which is long enough (and departs late enough) for me to have something to eat and then get a bit of sleep. The JFK-Paris flight leaves earlier and is only six hours, so I arrive in Paris at what feels like midnight, with a pleasantly full stomach but no sleep to speak of.

My bag is off the plane amazingly quickly. I take a cab. The driver can't quite understand the name of my hotel, presumably because I don't do exactly the right uvular spasm on the 'r,' but allows me to type it into his phone. When we arrive there's a slight problem because the hotel doesn't seem to exist. Well, wouldn't that just be typical . . . oh, wait, there it is, just with a discreet entrance.

"Bonjour," I say to the desk clerk. (My French is limited to "Bonjour" and "Pourquoi n'y a-t-il pas de serviettes de bain?") I give her my name and tell her I'm checking in, although not right away of course, because it's 7:00 in the morning and that would be too much to hope for. "Oh, yes, your room is available."

Awesome.

I spend much of the rest of the day walking around Paris, which (I don't know whether anyone else has remarked on this) is not a bad-looking city. The advice I've always been given is that you should stay awake until normal bedtime rather than trying to nap during the day. I find that harder than usual because of the lack of sleep, and I'm a bit foggy but still do what I'm supposed to do.

At some point I realize that my lack of preparation has extended to not having any adapters for my electronics. I ask at the front desk where I might buy one in the neighborhood. Desk clerk #2 tells me she thinks they may have some, but she's not sure where they are. Hang on a second. (Turns to desk clerk #1.) "Des adapteurs?" Desk clerk #1, who is in the middle of some complicated transaction with some other non-Francophone guests, points to the appropriate desk drawer, and #2 hands over the adapter.

This has taken thirty seconds and cost me nothing. I love this place.

At some point during the afternoon I receive this picture:

OH DA BELLIES.

GIMME DA BELLIES.

Sorry. Where was I?

Having dutifully remained awake and logged untold steps on Google Fit, I turn into bed at the appropriate time. Naturally I have trouble getting to sleep. But once I do manage to fall asleep . . .

I stay that way for fourteen hours.

I genuinely hate missing church, but sleeping till past 1 pm was strikingly restorative, and probably essential in some appropriately non-technical sense of 'essential.'

I head out for lunch. I have chosen the restaurant on the basis of its being really close and my being really hungry. I decide to sit outside, which is very pleasant. A young man walks by in a Georgetown T-shirt. I have no way of knowing (short of randomly calling out to him) whether he's a Georgetown student, but this one thing I am sure of: he is not registered for my Medieval Ethics class.

No one is.

Bummer.

The menu is bilingual, but the sheet with the specials of the day is not. Despite the impression I've tried to give so far, I actually do have some French. I can read French scholarship pretty easily. (All those varieties of Really Late Latin are at least vaguely recognizable.) It's just that my vocabulary runs to things like "analogical predication" and "subsistent being itself" rather than, say, "goose." So I Google Translate a couple of dubious things.

It's really quite a lovely meal, and the waiter doesn't seem to take it amiss that I don't eat anywhere near all of anything I order.

Then back to the hotel and final touches to my paper. I have realized that there are actually only two proper genres for the expression of the idea I'm working out: Post-It Note and monograph. My 3000 words will be an unfortunate compromise.

The title is "'Be anxious for nothing': Anselm on Fearing Evil." Do I fear the evil of a half-baked paper? I do not.